No, Hailey Bieber Did Not Begin the Brown Liner and Gloss Development

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 27: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Hailey Bieber attends the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

If you happen to’ve been on beauty TikTok just lately, you then’ve almost certainly seen Hailey Bieber’s “brownie glazed lips.” The approach is easy sufficient: Bieber traces her lips with a brown lip pencil, mixing it barely together with her fingers, and tops it off with a clear glossy balm from her skin-care line. As with most of Bieber’s magnificence movies, the look instantly went viral — with brownie glazed lips taking TikTok by storm.

This is the difficulty with that: just some years in the past, the brownie glazed lip was simply brown lip liner (and in some instances an eyeliner or eyebrow pencil) topped with lip gloss. Extra importantly, it was a glance predominantly worn by Black and brown individuals as a result of it was the one coloration deep sufficient to point out up on their pores and skin tones. It has been particularly embraced inside the chola subculture, worn by first and second technology Mexican-People, for many years.

Now, this isn’t a condemnation of Bieber or to say, in any approach, that she can’t partake within the brown lip liner and clear gloss development. In reality, it is the alternative — the ’90s are back in an enormous approach and the lip look was worn on on a regular basis ladies BIPOC and Hollywood starlets alike through the decade, so it solely is smart that magnificence developments of that period would find yourself on a couple of temper boards at the moment. The issue right here lies within the repackaging of an aesthetic, by each Bieber and her followers, that was popularized by Black and brown individuals out of shortage. BIPOC merely didn’t have the wide range of options as they do at the moment, so the brown lip liner development of the ’90s was a necessity as a lot because it was a cute aesthetic.

Individuals turned to this mixture when ashy, beige-toned lipsticks marketed as a “common nude” did not work for them. It allowed them to realize a lip look that was flattering with out having to turn into beauty chemists — mixing and matching shades to get their right tones. Many individuals have not forgotten that feeling of isolation that got here when this was the one selection for years.

It is price noting that darkish lip liner and gloss additionally turned the antithesis of what was seen as the sweetness ideally suited in predominantly white media — a obtrusive distinction to the way it was portrayed on Black and brown actors. In white media, on quite a few TV exhibits and mainstream motion pictures within the ’90s and early ’00s, this look was relegated to the antihero; the uniform for the sidekick that the viewers was supposed to like to hate (assume Gabrielle Union in “Deliver It On” or Bianca Lawson in “Save the Final Dance”). Whereas in Black and brown media, it was the aesthetic (see: Nia Lengthy in “Love Jones,” or frankly any music video by Aaliyah).

Nobody is saying Bieber ought to be vilified for utilizing brown lip liner and topping it off with a gloss. However not every thing must be a pithy advertising phrase to promote a product.

Although there are many lip-liner choices available on the market at the moment, you’ll be arduous pressed to discover a Black, brown, or Latinx one that would not personal a brown lip liner — at this level, it has been so entrenched in our tradition via generations that it is simply one thing we do. That is why slapping a brand new title on a glance that’s nearly instinctual for a overwhelming majority of the inhabitants isn’t solely redundant but additionally slightly insulting, particularly while you have a look at who will get “credit score” for the development.

Once more, nobody is saying Bieber ought to be vilified for utilizing brown lip liner and topping it off with a gloss. However not every thing must be a pithy advertising phrase to promote a product. As a lot attain as Bieber has, she — similar to her viewers — is influenced by developments that got here earlier than her. There isn’t a a part of her aesthetic that hasn’t been executed earlier than, so here is my recommendation earlier than you rename one other magnificence look that holds a deep significance to a marginalized group on this nation: simply do not.

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